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Lakeside Sock – Free Knit Sock Pattern

I’m back with another super beginner friendly knit sock pattern! The lakeside sock uses simple knit and purl stitches to give it a gorgeous texture that was inspired by the rocky lakeside of Lake Erie. This simple and repetitive pattern is perfect for those cozy nights of knitting socks we have ahead of us! So light a fire (or put on the Netflix fire) and snuggle up with this knit sock pattern!

These super textured socks are a great next sock for beginner sock knitters (or any level sock knitter!) because only knits and purls make up this gorgeous squishy knit sock pattern! Enjoy!

Yarn

For these Lakeside Socks, I chose a gorgeous hand-dyed yarn from The Little Foxes. The contrasting yarn for the toe/heel are some that I dyed up myself! (You can watch the videos of me dying the yarn here on Instagram! Part 1 and Part 2 because they’re just fun to watch!)

While I want everyone to have access to free patterns, I realize ads aren’t for some people which is why I’ve also made up a printable pdf that is available in my Etsy shop! So, if you’re one that likes to print out your patterns so you can write and mark all over them, I’ve got your back, too! Just click below to purchase the affordable printable pdf because every little bit of support helps me to keep putting out new patterns! Thank you!

Alright! Let’s get on to the main event! Now, introducing The Lakeside knit sock pattern!! I recommend reading through the entire pattern before getting started! Happy knitting!

Materials

  • 220-250 yds fingering weight yarn
  • 20 yds contrasting fingering weight yarn for heels/toes (optional)
  • US size 1 needles (DPNs, or 36″ or longer circular for magic loop)
  • tapestry needle for weaving in ends
  • stitch markers

Guage

2″ square

24 rows x 18 sts

stockinette knit in the round and blocked

Sizes

Measured around the circumference of the ball of your foot.

(7″/18cm) (8″/20cm) (9″/23cm) XL (10″/25cm)

Abbreviations

CO – Cast on

BOR – Beginning of Round

K – Knit

P – Purl

St – Stitch

PM – Place Marker

SM – Slip Marker

k2tog – Knit 2 together

p2tog – Purl 2 together

ssk – slip slip knit

Rnd – Round

Instructions

CO 56 (64, 72, 80) sts then join stitches for working in the round. Be sure you don’t twist your stitches when joining!

CUFF

Establish a 2×2 rib pattern (k2, p2) until cuff measures 1″

LEG

Row 1-2: k around.

Row 3-4: k 1, p 1 around.

Row 5-6: k around

Row 7-8: k 1, p 1 around.

Repeat rounds 1-8 until desired leg length is reached. I did 4″ for my Socks. It is easiest to end after working a row 1 or 5.

PLACING WASTE YARN FOR AFTERTHOUGHT HEEL

We will now be knitting a line of waste yarn where the heel will go eventually.

(feel free to sub any heel of your choice here)

Knit across first 28(32, 36, 40) sts of sock.

Pick up a strand of waste yarn and then knit across remaining 28(32, 36, 40) sts in the waste yarn. Transfer those waste yarn stitches from your right needle back to your left needle and then using your working yarn, knit across all the waste yarn stitches.

Now, you have your waste line for your peasant heel! Leave those tails dangling on either end and make sure you don’t cut them too short because we don’t want them escaping!

FOOT

Continue working in pattern until your foot is at the desired length before beginning toe decreases. Remember to work the pattern in only the first 28(32, 36, 40) sts and stockinette on the last half of your sts!

Toe Decreases

I begin my toe decreases when the sock reaches the tip of my pinky toe. If the socks you are knitting are a gift or you can’t try them on easily, the Craft Yarn Council has the following length guidelines for the foot of a sock, measured from the back of the heel to the end of the toe.

All sizes are US

Women’s shoe sizes 4-6.5: 8-9″ (20.25-23cm)

W‘s shoe sizes 7-9.5: 9.25-10″ (23.25-25.5cm)

W’s shoe sizes 10-12.5: 10.25-11″ (26-28cm)

Men’s shoe sizes 6-8.5: 9.25-10″ (23.25-25.5cm)

M’s shoe sizes 9-11.5: 10.25-11″ (26-28cm)

M’s shoe sizes 12-14: 11.25-12″ (28.5-30.5cm)

You will want to start shaping your toe approximately 1.5″ (3 cm) before the end of your desired foot length.

TOE DECREASE

With CC, knit one round even, then begin the decreases

Row 1: k1, ssk, k until 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, k until 3 sts before BOR, k2tog, k1.

Row 2: K around.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until 24 (28, 32, 36) sts remain.

Close your toe using the kitchener stitch.

KNITTING THE AFTERTHOUGHT HEEL

First, we will need to get those heel stitches back on your needles!

You currently have half of your stitches worked into a strand of waste yarn on either side. We’ll then be picking up those stitches (plus an additional stitch on either side) giving you a total of 60( 68, 76, 84) stitches on your needles.

We will be picking up the right leg of each stitch directly below the line of waste yarn starting with one stitch before the line of waste yarn. Continue picking up the right leg of each stitch until you have 30( 34, 38, 42) stitches on your needle. Repeat for the other side of your waste yarn.

Once you’ve picked up all of your heel stitches, we need to remove the waste yarn. If you’re using Magic Loop, then you’ll slide all the stitches to the cables. This makes it much easier to get the waste yarn out!

Place marker at BOR and after knitting 30( 34, 38, 42) stitches

With CC, k 1 round even, then we will begin the following decreases (it will look exactly like the toe decreases you’ve already done!)

Row 1: k1, ssk, k until 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, k until 3 sts before BOR, k2tog, k1.

Row 2: K around.

Repeat rows 1-2 until 24 (28, 32, 36) sts remain.

Close your heel using the kitchener stitch.

FINISHING

Weave in ends and block!

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Samantha

Writer & Blogger

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